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Hinggi cloak (mantel, probably for a man)
East Sumba, Indonesia
Handspun cotton, natural dyes
Warp ikat, woven circa 2007-2011
Purchased at Threads of Life, Ubud, Bali
Anne and John Summerfield Textile Study Collection
Iris and B. Gerald Cantor Art Gallery, College of the Holy Cross

Hinggi cloak

Hinggi cloak detail

This East Sumbanese warp ikat is unusual for having a bold band of patola-derived motifs across the middle of the central field.  The old silk patola trade cloths certainly have long influenced Sumbanese ikat hand manufacture to a degree but this outright borrowing of the diamond-shaped forms is somewhat uncommon.  At top and bottom of the ikat: bands of hens, then bands or large naga snakes or dragons facing a skull tree, then another smaller band of fighting cocks.  The red-orange, black, cream color scheme is arresting.  Twining at the top and bottom and a simple twisted fringe as well.

When Threads of Life NGO commissions a weaver to make a new hinggi she has considerable latitude to choose and mix motifs.